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Practical Grower Lynn Long on .... |
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Sun-drenched hills, fields of lavender, and a Mediterranean
climate combine with the works of Van Gogh, Picasso, and many
others to define the region of France known as Provence. Rising
out of the Mediterranean Sea, this starkly beautiful land is the
center of France's processed cherry industry. Surrounded by hills
and rock outcroppings bleached white by the sun, cherries bloom
and grow in a land of contrasts.
Numerous small orchards dot the landscape. In one 2,500-member
fruit cooperative only 500 orchards are larger than five acres.
It is not unknown for growers with as few as 10 trees to bring
fruit to the cooperative for processing.
Napoleon (Royal Anne) is the main variety used for processing
in the region, while Rainier serves as pollenizer. Each year 22,000
tons of Napoleons are grown in France for canned, glacé,
or brine cherries.
Most of France's processed cherries are made into candied or glacé
cherries. One cooperative alone processes 12 to 13 thousand tons
of brine cherries per year. Seventy percent of these are made
into candied cherries. Canneries take 30 percent of the processed
production, while only 1,000 tons were sold as brine cherries
in 1993, about eight to 12 percent of the total processing volume.
Most of the candied cherries are exported, but demand on the world
market is static. Most are destined for small bakeries in Europe,
Australia, South Africa, and Quebec, Canada.
France's brine cherry industry is small but growing. The French
sell the idea that only the best cherries are placed on the brine
market, and brine cherries are special varieties grown in special
orchards.
Many of the processing orchards in Provence are old and declining.
This is especially true of the non-irrigated orchards in the mountainous
regions. Here, it is not uncommon to see low-density orchards
with dying trees. However, in the irrigated valleys almost 2,000
acres have been replanted over the last five years. This represents
20 percent of the region's total sweet cherry acreage grown for
processing.
Processing orchards tend to be more traditional than the fresh
cherry orchards in Provence, which are often planted at high densities,
with trees on dwarfing rootstocks and unique training systems.
Modern processing orchards, on the other hand, are of standard
density and pruned to the typical open-vase style.
As in fresh cherry production, labor costs are the major factor
encouraging industry reform. In 1993, the cost of picking was
about equal to the price paid growers. Pickers were paid $10 to
$11 per hour, and the average worker harvested about 22 pounds
per hour. Growers received only 46 cents per pound in 1993. For
the past several years prices have hovered in the range of 46
to 55 cents per pound.
In the past, gypsies were the major source of harvest labor throughout
the region. However, in the last five years, with the requirement
for growers to pay social expenses, more and more local residents
have been harvesting the crop.
Because of these higher expenses, it is estimated that within
the next five years, 50 to 75 percent of the processed cherries
will be mechanically harvested. Most of the larger orchards will
change to mechanical harvesting, while very small operations will
continue to use family labor.
However, French processors have had problems adapting to mechanical
harvesting since these cherries tend to be softer, leading to
more loss during the brining and processing operations. In addition,
when rain comes during the harvest season, the problem of soft
cherries is compounded. processors are trying to find new markets
to absorb these cherries.
The French are concerned about what they perceive to be inexpensive,
low-quality cherries purchased by the Italians from eastern Europe,
mainly Romania, Hungary, and Bulgaria. These cherries are processed
by the Italians and sold at lower prices. In recent years, the
Italians have purchased about 10,000 tons of sweet cherries at
23 cents per pound, about half the price the French industry pays
growers for cherries. This has led to a 20 percent reduction in
the French market share.
Because of this competition, the price paid to French growers
has been declining in recent years. French growers recently signed
a three-year agreement with industry personnel guaranteeing price
and supply. This price is determined by crop size, competition,
and bargaining. The current agreement is 10 to 15 percent lower
than the previous contract.
There is also major concern over the large sweet cherry acreage
being planted in Turkey. French industry personnel feel threatened
by what they feel is the potentially unlimited supply of inexpensive
cherries that can flood the European market in the future. No
tariffs are charged to the Turks or any of the eastern European
countries by the European Common Market. French, Spanish, German,
and Italian groups are fighting unlimited importation of cherries
from Turkey.
Though faced with many challenges, the French processed cherry
industry is looking to the future, hoping to develop new markets
while maintaining its lead in the glacé industry. Orchards
are being renewed to increase production and, with the use of
mechanical harvest, growers are hoping to regain the competitive
edge in the market with a high-quality product.