CORVALLIS, Ore. — Oregon is one of the best places to grow strawberries, and early spring is the time to plant new crowns.
Plant as soon as soil can be worked and sites have full sun and good drainage. With the right mix of types and cultivars, you can harvest through much of the season.
Strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) fall into three categories:
- June-bearers. One large crop in June; best for jam and freezing; generally top texture and flavor.
- Everbearers. Two lighter crops — June and late summer.
- Day-neutrals. Fruit repeatedly from May into early fall; better flavor than everbearers and ideal for season-long harvests.
Recommended cultivars include June-bearer ‘Hood’ (the flavor standard), day-neutrals ‘Albion’ (large berries, stores well) and ‘Seascape’ (steady crops), and everbearer ‘Quinault’ (older selection with declining popularity as newer types excel).
Planting systems and spacing
Build raised beds about 12 inches high and amend with compost. Two proven approaches:
- Matted row (best for June-bearers): Set plants 12–15 inches apart in 2-foot rows with beds 3–4 feet apart. Let runners root within the bed; redirect stray runners back into the row.
- Hill system (best for day-neutrals and everbearers): Keep plants 12–15 inches apart in double or triple rows with 1½–2-foot aisles. Remove runners every 2–3 weeks — wait until “daughter” plants have formed but before they root.
Fertilize and water
Use a balanced fertilizer (for example, 16-16-16). Sweep granules off foliage and water after feeding.
- June-bearers: Fertilize after renovation (post-harvest).
- Day-neutrals/everbearers: Smaller, split applications through the season.
- Keep soil evenly moist (about 1–1½ inches of water weekly). Avoid waterlogging — “wet feet” reduce vigor. Weed control and steady moisture help plants outcompete weeds.
Year-one expectations and renovation
First-year crops are light; full yields follow in year two and continue two to four seasons before production declines. Start a new bed before the old one phases out. In Oregon, keep day-neutrals only two years; remove the first two flushes of flowers on new plantings to build roots.
June-bearer renovation: After harvest, mow foliage to about 2 inches above crowns, remove debris, narrow rows, and encourage new runner set.
Pests, diseases and rotation
Rotate beds periodically — strawberries are susceptible to verticillium wilt. Manage spotted-wing drosophila by frequent picking, sanitation, good airflow and dry surfaces; organic spinosad products are options if needed.
Regional considerations across Oregon
Western Oregon (Willamette Valley/North Coast)
- Plant early; raised beds improve drainage in clay soils. Day-neutrals excel for continuous fruit; ‘Hood’ shines for June crops.
Oregon Coast (North/South Coast)
- Cool, moist springs favor disease — use sharp drainage, wider spacing and morning sun exposure.
Southern Oregon (Rogue/Umpqua valleys, South Coast)
- Mulch to conserve moisture and moderate heat; provide afternoon shade for day-neutrals during heat waves.
Central Oregon (High Desert)
- Delay planting until soils warm and frost risk eases. Use raised beds, row covers for cold snaps, and drip irrigation; select hardy day-neutrals.
Eastern Oregon (Columbia Plateau/Basin/Blue Mountains)
- Choose wind-sheltered sites with excellent drainage; mulch to buffer temperature swings and conserve water.
Learn more
Previously titled Early spring is the best time to plant strawberries
