Choose a site
Adjust your garden plan to the amount of land available and the needs of your family. Choose a location that is level or only slightly sloped and that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. The site should be well drained. Avoid areas close to large trees or shrubs that will compete with your vegetables for water. For ease of maintenance, there should be a water source nearby. Figure 1 shows one possible layout for a vegetable garden.
Prepare the soil
Start by assessing soil tilth. Good tilth means a soil is easy to dig in, accepts and stores water readily, has good drainage, and make a good seed bed. To maintain or improve soil tilth, add fresh or composted organic matter each year. See Improving Garden Soils with Organic Matter, EC 1561, to learn about choosing and using composts, manures, and other organic materials to improve your garden soil. Winter cover crops also can improve soil tilth.
To maintain good soil tilth, consider growing vegetables in raised beds and keeping foot traffic out of the beds. Raised beds often improve drainage, allow soil to warm rapidly in the spring, and reduce problems with soil-bourne disease.
In most cases, an annual application of a balanced fertilizer (such as 20-20-10), at a rate that supplies about 3 lbs of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet, is sufficient for vegetable crops.
Fertilizer labels indicate the percentages of nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potash (K) in the material. For example, a fertilizer labeled 20-20-10 contains 20 percent nitrogen, 20 percent phosphate, and 10 percent potash. Thus, every 10 lb of this fertilizer contains approximately 2 lb of nitrogen, 2 lb of phosphate, and 1 lb of potash.
If you have applied a balanced fertilizer at recommended rates for several years, enough P and K may already be present in the soil, because they are less mobile than N. Nitrogen can leach out of the soil iwth excessive irrigation or rainfall. Consider soil testing every 3 to 5 years to see whether you really need to supply any nutrient other than N.
Nitrogen is used by vegetables most efficiently when it is applied just prior to rapid vegetative growth. For established vegetable gardens that do not require annual P and K addition, consider applying some of the nitrogen 3 to 6 weeks after seeding or transplanting, just prior to rapid vegetative growth. Vegetables most likely to benefit from a split application of N include peppers, sweet corn, and celery. Use a liquid or soil fertilizer with a high ratio of n (for example, 3-1-1, 30-10-10, or 21-0-0). Apply at a rate of approximately 2 lb N per 1,000 square feet. Place the fertilizer on the soil surface beside the row, just before watering. Avoid broadcasting fertilizer into the whorls of corn leaves, as it may damage emerging leaves.
Repeated annual applications of manures or composts can reduce or eliminate the need for fertilizer. For more detailed information on fertilizing, see Fertilizing Your Garden: Vegetables, Fruits, and Ornamentals, EC 1503.
Soil pH is a measure of acidity. The ideal soil pH for most vegetable crops is 6.0 to 7.5. Most soils in western Oregon are naturally more acidic than this, meaning the pH is lower. Lime will raise soil pH and make it more suitable for vegetable crops.
Lime is slow-acting and doesn't move well in the soil. Apply lime in fall or spring and till it into the soil. For new vegetable gardens in western Oregon, apply 10 lb of agricultural-grade lime per 100 square feet. East of the Cascades, many soils are naturally alkaline and do not benefit from lime application.
A soil test by an agricultural testing laboratory can help you determine whether lime, phosphorus, potassium, or other nutrients are needed. For more information, see A List of Analytical Laboratories Serving Oregon, EM 8677, and Soil Sampling for Home Gardens and Small Acreages, EC 628.
Plant on recommended dates
The map on this page shows the four Oregon growing regions. Table 1 shows approximate planting dates for each region. Adjust planting dates based on your particular locality and seasonal weather pattern.
Follow planting recommendations on the seed packet. Water lightly and frequently (as often as once or twice daily for small-seeded vegetables such as onions, celery, carrots, spinach, chard, and parsley) until seedlings are well established.
Many freshly tilled and planted soils in western Oregon form a crust after overhead irrigation or rain. This crust can prevent small seeds from emerging. Covering seed furrows with a light potting mix instead of soil can prevent crusting. Floating rows covers (see below) placed over the seed row also help prevent crusting.
Mulches and floating row covers
Black, red, green, or silver plastic; various organic mulches; and row covers can improve germination, yield, and quality of hear-loving crops such as melons, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, sweet corn, and pole beans.
Plastic mulches warm the soil, conserve moisture, eliminate weeds, and keep fruits and vegetables from rotting by keeping them clean and away from the soil. Punching small holes in the plastic prevents water from accumulating on top of it.
Organic mulches mulches are another option. You can apply 1 to 2 inches of straw, hay, leaves, or mint hay. These mulches conserve soil moisture and control insects, and they will improve soil structure and nutrient content over time.
Organic mulches do not warm the soil. For heat-loving plants such as peppers and eggplants, apply them only after soil temperatures have risen. Organic mulches can provide habitat for slugs, so monitor mulched areas during the rainy season.
Row covers speed early growth and protect plants from insects and spring frosts. Covers of polyethylene, polyester, and polypropylene are available from seed companies and garden supply stores and catalogs. Usually you can place these covers directly on the crop. Lay them loosely to allow for several weeks of plant growth. Hold them in place by putting weights, such as rocks or pieces of lumber along the edges. For plants with growing points at the top of the plant, such as peppers, hoops or other supports may be necessary to prevent damage to the growing point.
Keep row covers on the crop for 4 to 6 weeks, or until bloom. Melons, squash, and cucumbers are pollinated by bees, so covers must be removed from thee plants during bloom.
|Vegetables||Start plants indoors this long before planting date for your region||1 - Coast Astoria to Brookings||2 - Western valleys, Portland to Roseburg||3 - High elevations, mountains, and plateaus of central and eastern Oregon||4 - Columbia and Snake valleys, Hermiston, Pendleton, Ontario||Amount to plant for family of 4||Distance between rows||Distance apart in the row|
|Artichokes (globe)||Crown||Aug. - Oct.||Aug. - Nov.||not suitable||not suitable||3-4 plants||48-60''||48 -60''|
|Asparagus||1 year||March - April||Feb. - March||Feb. - March||Feb. - Match||30 - 40 plants||36''||12''|
|Beans (lima)||not suitable||not suitable||May - June||May - June||April 15 - June||15 - 25' of row||12 - 24''||4 - 6'' bush, 12 - 24'' pole|
|Beans (snap)||not suitable||May - June||May - June||April - June||April 15 - June||15 - 25' of row||12 - 24''||2 - 6'' bush, 12 - 24'' pole|
|Beets||not suitable||March - June||March - June||April - June||March - July||10 - 15' of row||12''||3''|
|Broccoli||6 weeks||May - June||March - Aug.||April - June||April - July||10 - 20' of row||24''||12 - 24''|
|Brussels sprouts||6 weeks||May - June||May - July||April - June||April - July||15 - 20' of row||24''||24''|
|Cabbage||6 weeks||Jan. - April, July - Sept.||April - June||April - June||April - July||10 - 15 plants||24''||24''|
|Cantaloupes||4 weeks||not suitable||May||not suitable||May||5 - 10 hills||48''||26''|
|Carrots||not suitable||Jan. - June||March - July 15||April - June||March - July||20 - 30' of row||12''||2''|
|Cauliflower||6 weeks||Jan. & June||April - July 15||April - May||April & July||10 - 15 plants||24''||24''|
|Celery||9 weeks||March - June||March - July||May - June||June - August||20 - 30' of row||24''||5''|
|Chard||not suitable||Feb. - MAY||April - July||March - June||Feb. - May||3-4 plants||24''||12''|
|Chinese cabbage||4 weeks||July - Aug.||August||April - June||August||10 -15' of row||24''||6 - 12''|
|Chives||6 weeks||April - May||March - May||April - July||Feb. - March||1 clump||12''||12''|
|Corn (sweet)||not suitable||April - May||April - June||May - June||April 15 - June||4 rows, 20 - 30' long||36''||12''|
|Cucumbers (slicing)||4 weeks||April - June||may - June||May - June||April 15 - June||6 plants||36''||6 - 12''|
|Cucumbers (pickling)||4 weeks||May||May - June||March - June||April 15 - June||25' of row||36''||6 - 12''|
|Dill||not suitable||May||May||May - June||May||25' of row||24''||6-9''|
|Eggplant||9 weeks||not suitable||May||not suitable||May||4 - 6 plants||24''||24''|
|Endive||6 weeks||March - July||April - Aug. 15||April - July||August||10 - 15' of row||12''||12''|
|Garlic||not suitable||Sept. - Oct.||Sept. - Feb.||Aug. - Sept.||Nov. - Feb.||10 - 20'' of row||12''||3''|
|Kale||not suitable||May - July||May - July||May - July||May - july||10- 30' of row||24''||24''|
|Kohlrabi||not suitable||July - Aug.||April - Aug. 15||May||April to Aug.||10 - 15'||12''||5''|
|Leek||not suitable||Feb. - April||March - May||April - June||Jan. - April||10' of row||12''||4 - 5''|
|Lettuce, head||5 weeks||Feb. - July||April - July||April - Aug.||Feb. - April||10 -15 of row||12''||12''|
|Lettuce, leaf||5 weeks||Feb. - Aug.||April - Aug.||April - Aug.||Feb. - April||10 - 15' of row||12''||6''|
|Okra||8 weeks||not suitable||not suitable||not suitable||May||10 - 20' of row||24''||18''|
|Onions||10 weeks||Jan. - May||Mar. - May||May - June||Feb. - April||30 - 40' of row||12''||3''|
|Parsley||10 weeks||Dec. - May||Mar. - June||May - July||Feb. - May||1 - 2 plants||12''||8''|
|Parsnips||not suitable||May - June||April - May||May||Mar. - June||10 -15' of row||12''||3''|
|Peas||not suitable||Jan. - Aug.||Feb. - May||April - June||Mar. - April||30 - 40' of row||24'' bush, 36'' vine||2''|
|Peppers||10 weeks||May||May - June||May - June||May||5 - 10 plants||24''||12-18''|
|Potatoes (sweet)||not suitable||not suitable||not suitable||not suitable||May||50 - 100' of row||24''||12''|
|Potatoes (white, etc)||not suitable||Feb. - May||April - June||May - June||Mar. - June||50 - 100' of row||24''||12''|
|Pumpkins||4 weeks||May||May||June||April 15 - June||1 -3 plants||72''||48''|
|Radish||not suitable||All year||March - Sept.||April - July||Mar. - Sept||4' of rows||12''||1 inch|
|Rhubarb||Crown piece||Dec. - Jan.||March - April||April||Feb. - March||2 - 3 plants||48''||36''|
|Rutabagas||not suitable||June - July||June or July||April - May||Mar. - July||10 - 15' of row||12''||3''|
|Spinach||not suitable||Aug. - Feb.||April & Sept.||April & July||Sept. - Jan.||10 - 20' of row||12''||3''|
|Squash (summer)||4 weeks||May||May - June||May - June||April 15 - June||2 - 4 plants||36''||24''|
|Squash (winter)||4 weeks||May||May||May||April 15 - May||2 - 4 plants||60''||36''|
|Tomatoes||8 weeks||May - June||May||May||May||10 - 15 plants||36'', closer if supported||24''|
|Turnips||not suitable||Jan. & Aug.||Apr. - Sept.||April - May||Feb. & Aug.||10 - 15' of row||12''||3''|
|Watermelons||4 weeks||not suitable||May||not suitable||May||6 plants||60''||48''|
Oregon is divided into four growing regions. Identifying your region will help you choose vegetable varieties and planting dates suitable to the growing conditions in your area as shown in Table 1.
- Region 1. Oregon coast: Cool but long season of 190 to 250 days.
- Region 2. Western valleys: 150- 250-day season; warm days, cool nights; length of season may vary considerably from year to year.
- Region 3. High Elevations: Short growing season of 90 to 120 days; frost can occur during any month.
- Region 4. Columbia and Snake river valleys 120- to 200-day season; hot days, warm nights; length of season fairly well defined.
Give your garden consistent care
Cultivate the soil only enough to eliminate weeds. In the first 30 days after planting, weed thoroughly. Most vegetable seedlings compete poorly against weeds. Transplanted vegetables are more competitive, but not all vegetables make good transplants.
Incorrect watering is the most frequent cause of problems in the garden. Apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water per irrigation. To check the amount of water applied, place several cans in your garden and check the amount of water in them. Apply the water slowly so as to not cause surface runoff and soil erosion. During dry weather, water about every seven days.
An alternative to sprinklers is soaker hoses or drip systems. These systems let you water just you crops without promoting weed growth between the rows. They also help prevent leaf diseases. When used carefully, low-pressure systems use less water than sprinklers. Because the water is restricted to a narrow band beside the row, you might need to modify fertilization practices and frequency of watering.
Finally, pay attention to the thinning requirements of your crops. See Table 1, or check the backs of seed packets. Each plant needs enough space to develop sufficient leaf area to support top and root growth. Excessive crowding can lead to poor-quality plants. in the case of corn, crowded plants produce few ears.
Control insects and diseases
You must control insects, slugs, symphylans, and diseases in order to obtain good plant growth. Consult appropriate Extension publications for recommendations on controlling these garden pests.
Always identify and monitor problems before acting, and consider the least toxic approach first. When using chemicals for insects or disease control, follow recommendations on the labels. Store all chemicals safely, away from children. Rinse empty containers and dispose of them in the manner recommended.
Double crops and crop rotation
Early vegetables such as spinach, radishes, leaf lettuce, and peas can be followed by additional plantings of the same or other vegetables. If your space is very limited, you might try companion cropping of early and late varieties. Companion cropping means planting two vegetables (such as radishes and tomatoes) at the same time in the same space. Plan carefully so that the larger, more vigorous crop does not inhibit growth of the smaller crop. Experiment with combinations and planting dates to find out what works in your garden.
It is a good idea to rotate your crops every year, as much as possible given your space limitations. Crop rotation can be an effective way to control soil-borne plant diseases if the alternative crop is not susceptible to the disease. In general, avoid planting crops from the same family (for example, tomatoes and peppers or broccoli and cabbage) in the same place two years in a row (see Table 2).
Buy seeds and plants carefully
Consult the list of recommended varieties (pages 10–14) and buy accordingly. For long - season crips such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, or for early crops of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and lettuce, buy plants or start your own transplants.
If recommended varieties are not available locally, you can purchase seed from a seed company. Some seed companies are listed below.* Probably no single source can provide all of the varieties listed.
- W. Atlee Burpee Co., 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974
- Harris Seeds, 355 Paul Road, Rochester, NY14624-0966
- Johnnyʼs Selected Seeds, 955 Benton Avenue, Winslow, ME 04901-2601
- Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 Old Salem Road NE, Albany, OR 97321
- Parkʼs Seed Co., 1 Parkton Avenue, Greenwood, SC 29647
- Seeds of Change, PO Box 15700, Santa Fe, NM 87592-1500
- Stokes Seeds, PO Box 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
- Territorial Seed Co., PO Box 158, Cottage Grove, OR 97424-0061
Many other small seed companies exist. If you have trouble finding a variety, you might try searching the Internet. Heirloom and hard-to-find nonhybrid varieties can be found in the Vegetable Seed Inventory, available from Seed Savers Exchange.
*Mention of these companies does not mean that the Oregon State University Extension Service either endorses these companies or intends to discriminate against companies not mentioned.
Many excellent books and periodicals on vegetable gardening are available from public libraries and garden stores. Articles in newspapers and magazines can help you throughout the growing season. Many seed company catalogs also contain production information. Other publications on gardening, pest control, vegetable storage, and variety selection are available from your county office of the OSU Extension Service or on the Extension website.
Need good drainage and protection from extreme winter temperatures. Harvest when the bud is still completely closed. Varieties grown from seed may give variable results, but they're worth trying.
Should have good drainage. Plant crowns 5 to 6 inches deep; cover with only 2 to 3 inches of soil the first year. This perennial will grow year after year, so plant in an area that does not get disturbed by tillage. Do not harvest the first 2-years to allow plants to become established.
Use bush varieties for quick production and pole types for longer season. With both types, consistent harvest of mature pods will prolong the bearing season. Try the flat-podded Italian types for a flavor treat.
Although broccoli generally does not do well in warm weather, careful selection of varieties may permit season-long crops in most areas. Floating row covers can protect plants from flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Wash off aphids with a forceful spray of water.
Does best in cool, uniformly moist conditions. Set out plants of early-maturing varieties as soon as spring conditions permit. Plant later-maturing varieties in late May of June for heading in the fall. As with broccoli, you might need to control flea beetles and cabbage maggots.
For early carrots, plant as soon as spring conditions permit. Grow carrots in raised beds to get smoother, longer roots. Use shorter varieties (Danvers, Nantes, Chantenay) if soils are heavy.
Make successive plantings of one variety or plant different varieties that vary in season of maturity. Several short rows in a rectangle are better for pollination than a few long rows.
These varieties need to be planted exclusively or separated from normal sweet varieties by about 2 weeks in planting date to minimize cross-pollination, which can drastically reduce eating quality. Do not plant too early. Supersweet types will not germinate in cold, wet soils.
Prefer warm, dry conditions; resist the temptation to plant too early. Keep fruit picked to prolong harvest.
Require heat and a long growing season. Use transplants and provide early-season warmth with a floating row cover. Plastic mulches can help by raising soil temperatures.
Tarragon, chives and mint are propagated by cuttings or crown divisions; most other common herbs can be grown from seed. Herbs do best in a sunny location. They require little care, water, or fertilizer. Most commonly grown are sweet basil, borage, chives, caraway, dill, fennel, mint, oregano, parsley, sage, rosemary, summer and winter savory, and thyme. Some herbs are perennials and should be planted in an area that is not disturbed by annual tillage.
A good substitute for turnip. Harvesting at maturity is critical, because fiber develops in older plants.
Mainly a cool-season crop. Choose heat-resistant varieties for later plantings. Plant short rows at 14-days intervals to prevent waste and prolong the season. For earliest lettuce, set out plants at the same time as early cabbage. Many beautiful and unusual types and varieties are available.
Many specialty melons are available. Use floating row covers and plastic mulch to extend the season and increase success. Remove covers when plants bloom so bees can pollinate flowers.
Prefer light, fertile, well-drained soils. Can be planted from seeds, sets, or transplants. Starting with seed allows for greater choice of varieties. Plant as early as possible in spring to allow maximum top growth before bulbing begins. Use long--day or day-neutral varieties in Oregon.
Plant early and make successive seedings or use varieties with different seasons of maturity. In regions 1 and 2, use varieties resistant to enation virus if planting in April or May. (See the recommended varieties below). Trellising makes it easier to pick thoroughly, which prolongs the bearing season. Chinese types or snow peas have a flat, edible pod. Snap peas have a fleshly, round, edible pod.
Heat lovers, best grown from transplants. Many types and colors are available. Supply plenty of nitrogen early to promote vigorous growth before fruit set. Plastic mulch increases soil temperature.
Cut pieces so there are at least three eyes per piece. Plant early potatoes from mid-April to June. Plant 5 to 6 inches deep for level cultivation and 4 inches deep if rows are to be hilled. Hill up soil, straw, or mulch around plants to prevent greening of shallow tubers. Water deeply. Soaker hoses are not recommended for potatoes.
Make successive plantings of the quantity you can use. Use floating row covers to protect plants from flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Radishes have shallow roots and need plenty of water to keep roots from getting pithy.
A cool-season crop very prone to bolting as days lengthen and temperatures rise. Plant spring spinach as early as possible for early summer harvest. Plant again from late July through September for fall harvest. Beet green, New Zealand spinach, and chard are substitutes for spinach that are less heat sensitive and therefore easier to grow.
A warn-season crop. Very rewarding and easy to grow with a wide range of colors, types, and flavors available. Can be grown from seeds or transplants. Winter varieties can be stored for long periods. Squash is bee pollinated, so if you use row covers be sure to remove them when the first blossoms appear.
Early varieties with compact growth are best suited to most Oregon areas. Set out well-grown plants after the last frost. Watch for flea beetle damage. Grow indeterminate varieties in cages or on a trellis; determine varieties do not require support. Water regularly to help prevent blossom-end rot.
The following list includes some of the varieties that have shown promise in Oregon. These varieties are recommended for all areas of Oregon except as noted.
Many of these varieties are available on seed racks in garden stores. You may have to order some of the newer ones form a seed company.
Artichoke (not regions 3,4)
Green Globe, Imperial Star
Mary Washington, Jersey Knight, Jersey Giant, UC 157, Purple Passion
- Green bush: Tendercrop, Venture, Slenderette, Oregon 91G, Oregon Trail, Provider, Jade, Oregon 54
- Flat Italian: Roma II
- French filet: Nickel, Grenoble
- Green pole: Blue Lake, Kentucky Wonder, Romano, Cascade Giant, Kentucky Blue, Oregon Giant
- Wax bush: Goldenrod, Goldenrush, Indy Gold, Slenderwax
- Lima, bush, large-seeded: Fordhook 242 (or any Fordhook)
- Lima, bush, small-seeded: Thorogreen, Baby Fordhook, Jackson Wonder
- Dry: Pinto, Red Kidney, White Kidney (Cannel-lini), Cranberry
- Edible soybeans or edamame: Envy, Early Hakucho, Butterbean, Sayamusume, Misono Green
- Red, globe shape: Ruby Queen, Red Ave, Warrior, Kestrel, Early Wonder, Pacemaker III, Detroit Dark Red
- Cylinderical: Cylindra, Forono
- Golden: Golden
- Novelty: white: Albina Verduna
- Greens: Early Wonder Tall Top, Bull's Blood, Big Top
- Green, heading: Premium Crop, Packman. Arcadia, Early Dividend, Regal, Windsor, Emerald Pride
- Purple: Rosalind
- Romanesco: Romanesco, Minaret
Jade Cross "E", Olicer, Tasty Nuggets, Prince Marvel, Trafalgar
- Early: Dynamo, Parel, Primax, Arrowhead, Capricorn, Farao, Tendersweet
- Main season: Golden Acre, Bravo, Charmant
- Late fall, winter: Danish Ballhead, Storage Hybrid #4, Blue Thunder
- Red: Ruby Perfection, Regal Red, Red Acre
- Savoy: Melissa, Savoy Express, Savoy Ace, Kilosa
- Michihili, Monument, China Express, China Flash
- Pak choi: Mei Quing Choy, Joi Choi
- Standard: Red Cored Chantenay, Royal Chantenay, Scarlet Nantes, Mokum, Bolero, Apache, Danvers, Ithaca, Sugarsnax 54, Nelson, Napa, Kuroda, Nantindo, Caropak, Nevis, Sweetness II, Napoli
- Baby carrots: Minicore, Babette, Parmex, Thumbelina
- White: Snowball "Y" Improved, Snow Crown, Candid Charm, White Rock, Apex, Callisto, Imperial 10-6, Amazing, White Magic, Concert
- Purple: Violet Queen, Graffiti
- Green: Alverda
Fordhook Giant, Rhubarh, Bright Lights, Bright Yellow, Silverado
- Green, tall, slender heads: Crystal Hat
- Red, also known as radicchio, tall slender heads: Chiogga Red Preco, Milan, Treviso Red Preco
- Nonheading, asparagus type: Catalonga
Utah 52-70R, Ventura
Vates, Champion, Flash
Note: Quality of all varieties may be dramatically altered under certain pollination conditions. Supersweets must be isolated from other types.
Corn, Yellow Kernels
- Standard sweet, early: Sundance, Early Sunglow, Seneca Horizon
- Standard sweet, main season: Jubilee (aslo called Golden Jubiless)
- Supersweet, early: Butterfruit
- Supersweet, main season: Supersweet Jubilee, ACX 1021Y
- Sugary enhanced, very early: Sugar Buns
- Sugary enhanced, early: Precocious, Kandy Kwik, Mystique
- Sugary enhanced, main season: Incredible, Kandy King, Kandy Korn, Legend, Bodacious
- Triple. sweet types (sh2su hybrids): Sugar Ace
Corn, White Kernels
- Note: Must be isolated from yellow or bicolor types to get all white kernels.
- Supersweet, early: White Satin
- Supersweet, main season: How Sweet It Is, Silver Lining, Xtratender 378A
- Sugary enhanced, main season: Silverado, Argent, Frosty, Sugar Snow II, Whiteout
Corn, Bicolor Kernels
- Supersweet, early: Xtratender 272A
- Supersweet, main season: Honey and Pearl, Phenomenal, Candy Corner
- Sugary, enhanced, early: Trinity, Fleet, Native Gem
- Sugary enhanced, main season: Temptation, Brocade, Fantasia, Delectable, Double Gem
- Triple sweet types (sh2su hybrids): Sweet Rhythm, Serendipity, Sweet Chorus, Sweet Symphony
Note: Must be isolated from other corn. Wampum, Chinook
- Pickling: SMR 58, Pioneer, Bush Pickle, County Fair
- Slicing: Burpee Hybrid, Marketmore 86 & 97, Poinsett, Raider, Dasher II, Slicemaster, Tasty Green, Greensleves, Orient Express, Suyo Cross, Amira, Genuine, Slicemore, Ultrapak
- Novelty: Armenian, Lemon
Eggplants (Not regions 1,3)
- Purple, oval: Dusky, Epic, black Bell, Calliope, Burpee Hybrid, Millionaire
- Purple, small, round: Bambino
- White: Cloud Nine
- Elongated: Megal, Bride, Orient Express
Green Curled, Batavian, Salad King, Neos
Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch, Improved Vates, Siberian, Winterbor, WInter Red, Nero di Toscana, Blue Ridge
Early White Vienna, Early Purple Vienna, Kongo, Kolibri, Eder
American Flag, King Richard, Kimima, Rikor
- Heading, main season: Summertime, Ithaca
- Heading, fall crop: Salinas
- Red lead: Prizehead, Red Sails, Redina, New Red Fire
- Green leaf: Salad Bowl, Grand Rapids, Slobolt, Green Vision
- Oak leaf: Oaky Red Splash
- Romaine: Paris Island, Valmaine, Green Towers, Outredgeous, Devils Tongue, Little Gem, Freckles
- Bibb: Summer Bibb, Ovation, Optima, Buttercrunch
- Butterhead: Esmeralda, Marvel of Four Seasons
- Batavian: Nevada, Sierra
Melons (Not regions 1,3)
- Cantaloupe/muskmelon: Ambrosia, Harper Hybrid, Gold Star, Classic, Pulsar, Superstar, Earlisweet, Eclipse, Primo, Earliqueen, Saticoy, Fastbreak
- Honeydew: Earlidew, Honey Orange, Morning Ice, Honey I Dew
- Galia: Gallicum, Galia, Passport, Arava
- Crenshaw: Early Hybrid Crenshaw
- Canary: Sugarnut
- Fordhook Fancy, Green Wave
- Long-standing: Osaka Purple, Giant Red
- Yellow: Copra, Prince, First Edition, Millennium, Frontier, New York Early, Candy
- Red: Redwing, Mars
- White: White Sweet Spanish, Blanco Duro, Superstar
- Overwintering: Buffalo, Walla Walla Sweet
- Green bunching: Ishikura, Tokyo Long White, He-shi-ko
Triple Moss Curled, Banquet, Dark Green Italian Plain
Harris Model, All America, Hollow Crown, Gladiator, Andover, Cobham Improved Marrow
- Shelling: Novella II, Oregon Trail, Oregon Pioneer, Green Arrow, Maxigolt
- Oriental edible pod: Oregon Sugar Pod II, Oregon Giant
- Snap pea, bush: Sugar Daddy, Super Snappy, Cascadia, Sugar Sprint
- Snap pea, pole: Sugar Snap or Super Sugar Snap (virus-susceptible; plant early)
- Sweet bell, green to red: Parks Early Thickset, Camelot, Fat 'N Sassy, Ave, Bellboy, Jupiter, Yankee Bell, North Star, Parks Whopper Improved, Vidi, Elisa, Lady Bell, King Arthur, Lantern, Conquest, Tequila, Blushing Beauty
- Sweet bell, green to yellow: Golden Bell, Golden Summer, Labrador
- Sweet, bell, green to orange: Ariane, Corona
- Sweet bell, green to purple: Lilac Bell, Purple Beauty
- Sweet bell, green to lavender to red: Islander
- Sweet bell, ivory to red: Snow White
- Specialty sweet: Sweet banana, Banana Supreme, Bananarama, Gypsy, Biscayne, Flamingo, Red Bull's Horn, Pizza, Lipstick, Apple, Paprika Supreme, The Godfather, Giant Marconi
- Ethnic: Sweet Round of Hungry, Euro Jumbo Sweet Cherry
- Cayenne: Super Cayenne II, Hero, Andy, Cayenne Long Slim
- Jalapeño: Tam Jalapeño, Early Jalapeño, Conchos, Mitla
- Specialty hot: Cherry Bomb, Serrano, Anaheim TMR 23, Boldog Hungarian Spice, Fajita Bell, Caribbean Red Habanero, Hot Paper Lantern
- Novelty, ornamental: Marbles, Riot, Ivory, Varengata, Pretty in Purple
- Red: Red Pontiac, Norland, Red La Soda, Cranberry Red
- White: Norgold Russet, Russet Burbank, Superior
- Yellow: Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold, Bintje, Desiree
- Purple: All Blue
- Large: Jack O'Lantern, Howden, Autumn Gold, Lumina (white), Magic Lantern, Rouge Vif d'Etamps
- Cinderella: Rock Star, Orange Smoothie
- Small: Small Sugar (Small Sugar Pie)
- Compact vines: Spookie, Tom Fox, Oz
- Novelty and exhibition: Bug Max, Dill's Atlantic Giant, Prizewinner
- Hulless seeded: Baby Bear, Snack Jack, Trickster, Kakai
- Mini ornamental: Jack Be Little, Wee-Be-Little, Lil Pump-ke-mon
- Red: Fuego, Comet, French Breakfast, Cherry Belle, Champion
- White: Burpee White, White Icicle
- Large Japanese: Sakurajima Mammoth
Crimson Red, Cherry Red, Valentine, Victoria
American Purple Top, Laurentian
- Spring-planted for early summer harvest, smooth leaf: Bloomsdale Long Standing, Melody, Olympia, Sookum, Nordic IV, Springer
- Springer-planted, savoy: Spinner, Correnta, unipack 151
- Late-summer-planted for fall harvest, smooth leaf: Oriental Giant, Rushmore
- Late-summer-planted, savoy: Jive
- Yellow: Early Prolific Straightneck, Multipik, Supersett, Fancycrook, Sunray, Yellow Crookneck, Goldbar
- Green Zucchini: Ambassador, Seneca, Elite, Tigress, Aristocrat, Raven
- Yellow Zucchini: Gold Rush
- Scallop: Sunburst
- Other: Tromboncino (C. moschata)
Squash, Winter (not Region 1)
- Miscellaneous: Golden Delicious, Banana, Spaghetti, Blue Hubbard, Sweet Meat
- Buttercup/Kabocha: Sweet Mama, Ambercup, Buttercup Burgess Strain, Gold Nugget, Black Forest, Delica
- Delicata: Sugar Loaf, Honey Boat
- Acorn: Bush Table Queen, Mesa Queen, Table Ace, Taybelle, Table Gold (orange), Cream of the Crop (white)
- Butternut: Early Butternut, Nicklow's Delight, Ultra
Sweet Potatoes (Not Regions 1,2,3)
- Very early: Oregon Eleven
- Early: Early Girl, Oregon Spring, Santiam, Oregon Pride, Oregon Star, Siletz, Legend
- Midseason: Willamette, Pik Red, Celebrity, Sunleaper, Mountain Spring, Medford, First Lady II, Big Beef
- Late: Big Boy, BHN 44
- Cherry: Oregon Cherry, Gold Nugget, Sweet Million, Cherry Grande, Sun Gold, Early Cherry, Thai Pink, Juliet, Sunsugar, Large German Cherry, Sweet Baby Girl
- Yellow: Golden Boy, Jubilee
- Paste: Oroma, Saucy, Halley 3155, Viva Italia, Super Marzano, Macero II, Health Kick
- Heirloom: Brandywine (from Johnny's)
- Root: Purple Top White Globe, Royal Crown, Tokyo Cross
- Greens: Shogoin
Watermelons (Not Regions 1,3)
- Red-fleshed: Crimson Sweet, Charleston Gray, Garden Baby, Sweet Favorite, Carmen, Sweet Diane
- Yellow-fleshed: Yellow Doll, Sunshine, Yellow Baby
- Red seedless: Millennium, Summer Sweet 3521Y, Triple Star, Summer Sweet 5544
- Yellow seedless: Buttercup
- Ice box: Sugar Baby, Tiger Baby