CORVALLIS, Ore. — From newly minted gardeners to avid urban farmers, everyone with a patch of land seems to want an apple tree.
Other fruits — pears, cherries, figs, plums — are desirable, too. But something about apples calls to us the loudest. That can lead to impulsive purchases without enough research.
“While apples grow well in this climate, they are not necessarily easy to grow,” said Erica Chernoh, a horticulturist with Oregon State University Extension Service. “They require regular maintenance and care.”
“While apples grow well in this climate, they are not necessarily easy to grow. They require regular maintenance and care.”
Before heading to the nursery, ask a few questions. When choosing a variety, think about flavor (sweet, tart or in between), mature height and disease resistance, Chernoh said.
Only you can decide on taste. Some garden centers host fall tastings, or you can buy different varieties and do a blind taste test at home.
For homeowners, she recommends dwarf trees, which range from 8 to 10 feet tall and are easy to find.
“Dwarfs are so much easier to manage,” Chernoh said. “You don’t have to climb a ladder to harvest or prune. And they fit well in the small lots many of us live on.”
Look for disease resistance
If you consider nothing else, check a variety’s resistance to common diseases. Apples are susceptible to powdery mildew, apple scab and anthracnose.
Reputable nurseries can advise you on resistant choices. You can also consult catalogs, books and magazines and tap the experience of gardener friends.
Chernoh recommends ‘Honey Crisp’ and ‘Liberty’ for resistance to apple scab, and ‘Pristine’ and ‘Enterprise’ for resistance to powdery mildew and apple scab.
Winter is prime time for pruning and spraying
If you already have a tree or two, winter dormancy is the time for pruning and dormant sprays. February is a good month for both.
“People have a fear of pruning,” Chernoh said. “They think they’ll cause irreversible damage. But actually, trees are pretty resilient.”
Pruning creates a strong structure to bear fruit and opens the canopy for sun and air.
For a new tree, Chernoh said to top it at waist height. The next year it will send out the scaffold branches that form the framework.
For established trees: first remove dead, dying and diseased wood. Then look for water sprouts — weak limbs that grow straight up — and thin those out. That alone takes care of a significant amount of pruning.
Never prune more than one-third of the tree in a year. After water sprouts, remove some crossed branches until you reach the one-third mark.
Know your wood: first-year vs. second-year
Apples produce fruit on 2-year-old wood and on spurs — the small, thornlike shoots along main branches.
First-year wood is the thinner, greener growth at the end of a lateral branch, with circular scars or rings separating it from the older wood. Aim for a balance of both. Don’t remove only old wood or only first-year wood — this year’s shoots become next year’s fruiting wood.
“Don’t over prune,” Chernoh said. “If one-third doesn’t get all the branches that need to be removed, wait and do additional pruning during the summer or the next year when you can take another third off. Conversely, if you don’t prune at all, the tree will grow too many limbs and will produce less fruit.”
The longer you wait to prune, the harder it is to restore production. It can take several years — removing about a third each year — to bring a neglected tree back.
For more help, visit OSU Extension publications Training and pruning your home orchard, Growing tree fruits and nuts at home and Pruning to restore an old, neglected apple tree.
Dormant sprays: what to use and when
February is also a good time to apply dormant sprays to protect against diseases and insect pests. Start by reading Managing diseases and insects in your home orchard.
“The dormant sprays suggested are allowed for organic gardening, but that doesn’t mean they are completely non-toxic,” Chernoh said. “Spraying during the dormant season is considered to be less toxic since most beneficials are less active this time of year.”
For winter dormant spraying use:
- Wettable sulfur for apple scab.
- Horticultural oils for aphids, mites or scale.
- Do not use sulfur if you’re applying a horticultural oil; the combination can be toxic to plants.
Timing: For apple scab, spray once now while the tree is dormant and the bud tips are green. Spray again later in winter when bud tips are pink, but before blossoms open. For insect pests, apply horticultural oil in late winter to control aphids, mite eggs or scale.
Get good coverage. A backpack sprayer is sufficient for smaller trees.
Safety and sanitation
Always read the pesticide label. It includes cautions and required safety measures such as wearing long sleeves, closed-toe shoes, safety glasses and a face mask. Labels provide directions and safety precautions — and it’s the law to read and follow them.
Practice good sanitation. In fall, rake up leaves and rotting or mummified fruit.
Learn locally
Seed stores often stock bare-root trees and may know of local classes. Some communities offer apple pruning classes or demonstrations. Contact your county Extension office to ask about upcoming classes or instructors.
Previously titled Time to perform winter maintenance on apple trees
Use pesticides safely!
- Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use.
- Read the pesticide label—even if you’ve used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have).
- Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use.
